Do the controls on an industrial sewing machine differ significantly from those on a homeowner machine?

I have to do a sewing test for a fashion design program. I've done sewing on my own machine but they use industrial models. I was wondering if there was a big difference between the two.Do the controls on an industrial sewing machine differ significantly from those on a homeowner machine?
Depends on the machine. Typically, there is a knee lift that controls the presser foot, and there is often a tie-off control. There may be more extensive computer controls for selection of stitches.





Can you ask the make %26amp; model of the machine you'll be testing on? And what you'll be tested on? Some of the binders and feet for industrials look not a whole lot like the sewing machine feet you're probably used to.





The old clutch machines are often adjusted to run very quickly... I remember sewing darts on them from tip to waist because it was the only way I could keep from overshooting the dart tip -- that was my first experience with an industrial, and rather nerve-wracking because I grew up with a home machine where the knee bar controlled the stitch speed, Did a lot of ripping that night. %26lt;g%26gt; Newer machines can operate at normal home sewing speeds as well as zoom off at a gazillion spm.





Here are a pair of new machines in operation:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jvYfzL2Wp鈥?/a>





There are a number of videos up on youtube of people sewing on various industrials... you might want to take a look. e.g.:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r28y42Yh4鈥?/a>


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjD0aBkOx鈥?/a> (old style)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yyOvHcsR鈥?/a>


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDK8N-eXf鈥?/a>





If you flunk the test and get put in class with someone who's been a samplemaker, you'll learn a lot of good stuff. This would be a good thing.Do the controls on an industrial sewing machine differ significantly from those on a homeowner machine?
There are a few differences between domestic and industrial machines. First and foremost is that the sewing head, table, motor, light and electrical wiring are all separate units. This means they are big. The motors are larger and they run faster. If you are used to sewing pedal-to-the-metal then you will have to use a much lighter touch on the industrial. Start with the lightest possible pressure on the foot control until you get a feel for the controls. With some machine you need to give the wheel on the side a little twist to help start up the machine. Don't be afraid to use the wheel on the side, in domestics you can wreck the machine, with industrials it doesn't hurt it at all. For detailed work I often use the wheel to ';walk'; the needle in tight places. For many industrial motors, backward pressure on the foot pedal puts on the brakes and the machine stops immediately.





The switch for an industrial is not on the sewing head, it's mounted to the table. Look under the machine at the motor and follow the wires, one set should lead to a switch of some type. It can be a single push button or a pair of buttons, one green one red. Green is start. Or it could be a switch like a light or a toggle switch.





Many industrial machine control stitch length through either a dial or a screw. Some have numbers marked, some don't. Some numbers refer to stitch length in millimetres, some don't. Turn the dial clockwise for longer stitches, counter clockwise for shorter. if the machine has a screw, then tightening it left makes short stitches, loosening it right should make shorter stitches. If the machine does zig zag, then you will change over using a set-screw dial and a lever. Some machines use two screws and a lever, some use only a lever.





all industrial machine use vertical bobbins in metal bobbin cases. They have a small screw in the case for adjusting tension. Industrial machine will sometimes need the bobbin tension adjusted depending on the fabric being sewn. Setting the needle tension, presser foot pressure, is similar enough to be easily learned, feed dogs and presser feet are mostly the same. raising and lowering the foot can be done either with a knee lift or with the lever to the back of the machine.





One model that is used in designer workshops, fashion schools, tailors, dressmakers and dry cleaners is the Singer 20U. It does straight and zig zag and for me it's my go-to machine. It's not too difficult to learn. Here's a PDF instruction manual you can read, it will give you the basics on how to thread the machine and how to set the stitch width and length. http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/鈥?/a>


Here's the singer industrial machine page. You can look at the models here: http://parts.singerco.com/html/machines.鈥?/a> and then you can find PDF instruction books for the models here: http://www.singermachines.co.uk/Parts_%26amp;_鈥?/a>





In addition to the 20U check out the other basic single needle lockstitchers. There's the 2691D and the 2188D, these are tow commonly used machines and the controls are similar to juki, consew, adler, and brother single lockstitch. Here's Juki's single needle lockstitch machines, however I doubt a school would have anything this expensive, these babies are several thousand each: http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/produ鈥?/a> Here's the very commonly used DDL by juki: http://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/produ鈥?/a>





That should give you a basic understanding of some common industrial machines. There are more similarities than differences. When you sit at the machine, make a few test seams on scraps, ostensibly to check tension, in reality to get a quick feel for the machine.





Hope this helps, industrials aren't really scary and they are in reality far easier to use than a home machine. Everything is adjustable and there are fewer parts, settings knobs and dials to learn.